LONDON, United Kingdom – 1 Granary started as an unofficial magazine for Central Saint Martins students in 2012, and since then it has become a global fashion and art platform for four fashion schools: Central Saint Martins and the Royal Academy of Arts in London, Parsons in New York and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Currently, his showroom in London houses the work of more than 60 designers, acting as an intermediary between inexperienced graduates and industry professionals. Now, the publication is to launch VOID, a new project to support emerging designers from around the world.
“VOID is an accumulation of all the projects we have done in 1 Granary over the years, from the magazine to the showroom that we opened two years ago, where our work with designers became much more intimate and substantial” , said Olya Kuryshchuk, started 1 Granary as a student at Central Saint Martins. “We realized that one thing is to work with designers as a press, focusing and promoting their work, and another thing to really help them when they are starting their brands or trying to find jobs.”
According to Kuryshchuk, the biggest challenge facing young designers is replicating the operations of larger brands since their first season. “There is little space for alternative ways of producing, presenting and selling fashion,” he said. “With VOID, we hope to not only support the creatives we work with, but also to maintain a conversation about these issues that are of concern to emerging designers.”
To begin, the magazine played as a matchmaker with seven emerging designers (Chopova Lowena, Charlotte Knowles, Richard Quinn, Stefan Cooke, Laura Newton, Eftychia Karamolegkou and Gabriele Skucas) pairing them with seven prominent stylists (Lyson Marchessault, Emma Wyman, Camille Bidault-Waddington , Gary David Moore, Katie Burnett, Anna Pesonen and Ellie Grace Cumming) and seven photographers (Chris Rhodes, Danielle Neu, Marie Déhé, Estelle Hanania, Hiu Zhi Wei, Pascal Gambarte and Tom Ordoyno).
Each of the collaborations will be shown in the fifth 502-page issue of 1 Granary, which also includes in-depth interviews with Alistair McKimm, Cathy Horyn, Terry and Tricia Jones, Jefferson Hack and Olivier Theyskens, and is backed by such brands like Gucci, Jil Sander, Ports 1961 and Givenchy. The collaborations will be exhibited at a free exhibition space at 180 The Strand in London from November 24 to 27, during which 1 Granary will also host educational talks, events and workshops as part of VOID. The concept will continue at Red Hook Labs in Brooklyn, New York in January (with a wider selection of designers from Parsons, RCA, CSM and Antwerp) before traveling to Montreal, Milan and Shanghai. The ambitious tour is in part courtesy of the support of established industry leaders, such as KCD, publisher Jefferson Hack, writer Jo-Ann Furniss, agent Jimmy Moffat and The Store Studios.
“We are approaching our relationships with young designers with a 360 degree vision,” said Kuryshchuk, who has known many of the designers since his days at the university. “We hope to show them alternative ways of operating, not blindly following the crowd and opening their eyes to the different opportunities.” 1 Granary is still a non-profit company, but Kuryshchuk wants to develop 1 Granary into “a long-term sustainable business”. “This is naturally aligned with our philosophy that the trend of free labor in the industry should come to an end.”